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When deep-frying the chicken, preparing crispy oily snacks, or cooking bacon, we almost always end up with leftover frying oil. You can conserve the cooking oil for later reuse. But if it’s gone dark or you don’t want to use it again, the inclination would be to dump it down the kitchen sink or flush it down the toilet.

But is it safe to dispose of cooking oil in the drain? Can vegetable, canola, coconut, and olive oils be handled efficiently by the plumbing system of your home?

Secondly, many people use oil for beauty and health purposes as well. Like oil pulling or washing their oil massaged bodies or oil massaged hair in the bathroom. So what rule applies to them?

Before we go into the details, here’s a clear response as to whether or not the cooking oil be dumped down the drain lines:

No. Don’t pour oil in the sink or the toilet. It can obstruct not just your home’s drainage system, but also the main sewer lines in the area. Oil, once poured down the drain, will either get cold and turn into its solidified state or grease the walls of the plumbing pipes and make them receptive to tiny pieces of everyday waste particles flushed down the pipes. The oil continues to pile up in the pipes, eventually creating trouble in the future. In worst-case scenarios, there could be a development of a huge fatberg that may destroy your sewage lines and drainage network. This applies to all types of Fats, Oils, and Grease (FOG).

Can You Flush Olive Oil Down The Kitchen Sink or Toilet Drain? If no, then why?

Never dump used olive oil down the drain. Though it will easily rinse off the kitchen sink clean or the first few meters of the drain pipes; at the same time, it will also be coated on the inside of the plumbing pipes. This sticky coating collects other tiny waste particle particles as they pass through the pipes, resulting in the accumulation of massive waste balls inside the pipe.

In addition, olive oil solidifies at temperatures around 37 degrees F. So in low-temperature areas, the poured olive will cool enough to solidify inside the plumbing system. In some situations, even a small deposit of olive oil would stop other items sent down the drain. These will start accumulating, leading to a huge clog.

Can You Flush Coconut Oil Down The Kitchen Sink or Toilet Drain? If no, then why?

Never, ever, pour coconut oil into the toilet or sink. Coconut oil, which solidifies at room temperature, hardens in the waste pipe and contributes to plumbing issues. In most scenarios, the dumped down coconut oil is quickly washed out of the sink and the first few meters of the drain pipes; but at the same time, the inside channels of the drainage pipes do still get coated with traces of oil. The oil congeals and with frequent disposal, the congealed oil buildup keeps growing inside the pipe, until it becomes a huge barrier in the shape of a fatberg.

Can You Flush Cooking Oil Down The Kitchen Sink or Toilet Drain? If no, then why?

Never dump cooking oils such as sunflower oil, canola oil, or vegetable oil down the drain. It is quickly washed out of the sink or bathroom toilet, but at the same time, it gets coated on the inner surface of the drain pipe in a grease-like texture. Over time, this sticky and greasy oil coating builds up and does a decent job of catching small bits of objects flushed down the drain – transforming into a huge clog at one point.

Can You Flush Motor/Engine Oil Down The Toilet Drain?

No. Dumping engine or motor oil into the sewer will not only contaminate and block the drains, but it can even leak into the ecosystem and harm wildlife. It also places tremendous pressure on water and wastewater treatment plants, since it does not decompose with enzymes and chemicals. That’s why dumping oil in the toilet is unlawful in many jurisdictions, and you could be held accountable for this offense by the local law agency.

You would better carry the used oil into a recycling center or you can also give it to the nearest gas station, which normally sells it to fuel blenders.

What If I Use Dispose Of Oil Down The Drain With Hot Water?

Any oil will get coated along the sewage pipes. Pouring hot water or a mixture of dish soap + hot water over will surely prevent the oil from being solidified and collected inside the drain pipes. Yet small traces of oil remain coated across the pipe’s interior, no matter what.

And if you keep doing this, these little traces of oil would continue to build up inside the drain pipes. It may take years; however, it may happen, and it can happen to the extent where you need to contact a licensed plumber to remove that massive obstruction from the drainage line.

Second, oil-contaminated water is challenging or even impossible to treat. This means that local waterways are also polluted.

And sometimes, while the oil may not clog your pipes, it will surely get cold and solid when in the city’s main sewer lines. The fat congeals and stuff that people are flushing cling to it, and it keeps growing and growing. Fatbergs get really big and hard at one stage and can destroy the main sewers of the area.

So while you think it’s a smart idea to pour hot water over oil, it isn’t!

Using Oil for Beauty & Health Purposes: How To Ensure Proper Drainage When Cleaning?

When using oil in your shower or tub, run hot water into the drain to keep the oil in ‘melted’ form inside the sewer pipes for efficient drainage. We suggest that you keep pouring hot water for a couple of minutes so that the oil is not re-solidified a few meters down the drain. Do this same process after oil pulling.

If you are worried about using coconut oil in your DIY bath scrubs, use fractional coconut oil instead. It is a type of oil that has its fatty acids separated by hydrolysis and steam distillation. This one modification holds the oil in liquid form, so it doesn’t solidify in your drain pipes.

How To Treat Drain Blockage Due To Oil or Grease Buildup?

In case of a drain blockage due to solidified oil buildup or grease, the following DIY formula is an effective natural way to get rid of the clog:

• Pour plenty of boiling water inside the drain. If, because of a large clog, the water does not go through, pour it in small hot boiling portions one after the other.
• Then toss 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain.
• Next, pour 1 cup of white vinegar down the drain. You’ll see bubbles. That’s great. The bubbles are helping to vacuum out the sludge trapped in your drains.
• Let it settle down for five minutes.
• At last, pour more hot boiling water inside the drain again to melt the oils and remove the obstruction.
• *Repeat the steps if needed.
• If fail, contact a licensed plumber for clog removal.

Know The Right Ways To Dispose of Used Cooking Oil

Instead of throwing the used cooking oil into the kitchen sink or bathroom toilet, here are recommended methods for the proper disposal of Fat, Oil, and Grease (FOG):

Preserve The Oil For Reuse.

If you plan on preparing deep-fried treats in the next few days or a couple of weeks, the used cooking oil can be preserved for further usage. First, strain the oil with a coffee filter or cheesecloth to extract debris and crumbs. Store it inside a sealed jar.

Remember that you should reuse oil once or twice only (for the good of your health). Otherwise, sniff it before using it. If it smells terrible, dump it away.

Pour The Oil Into a Non-Recyclable Container and Trash It.

If the oil is not usable, let it cool down and then empty it into a non-recyclable jar with a lid and dump it into the garbage. Cardboard cartons, wax-lined paper containers, and plastic-lined paper containers are the best non-recyclable containers that are suitable for this purpose. White styrofoam boxes are also acceptable alternatives.

Chill The Oil Until Solid and Dump It.

If you intend to throw it away, you must first freeze the oil. Transfer the oil into an old bowl and refrigerate it. Once the oil solidifies properly, it is ready to be dumped into the trash. Scoop it out of the bowl and garbage it.

Combine The Oil With An Absorbent Material and Discard.

Before disposal, combine the oil with an absorbent material that easily extracts fluids – something like cat litter, hay, sand, or sawdust would work well and trash it.

Send The Used Oil To Recycle Plants.

Check for an oil recycle plant near you and send your used cooking oil to them. These plants recycle the oil into biodiesel or heating oil.

Splashback is a major issue with toilets. I won’t lie. It’s disgusting. It’s gross. And it feels really gross to experience the unpleasant splashback touch.

But it happens right?

If you happen to get toilet water splashback, you’re not alone. It happens to thousands of people every day. We tend to use the bathroom several times a day, and therefore, most of us are likely to have toilet water splashes on us every day.

Ummm, obvious??

Drop something into the liquid, and it’ll trigger a splashback. As a consequence of the big feces that fall out of you, your buttocks get splashed with toilet water. Close to tossing a stone into the sea, as the stone enters the water, you see the water splashing back. Before you decide to poop again, can we recommend placing a couple of layers of toilet paper inside the toilet rim. This should help avoid water splashing your butt cheeks, making you feel hygienic!

Let’s read on more to find out whether you can get any infections or diseases from bathroom toilet water splash? We will also discuss what to do if toilet water splashes on any of your body parts + some tips on how to avoid toilet water splashback.

*Do you know?

The butt splash syndrome is synonymous with perfect stools. In other words, a stool that doesn’t have to be wiped multiple times. So be informed if you have this, you’re lucky on the other hand, as well.

Since people don’t inform others about their stools, so you may not realize you’ve got this. You might assume that all human stools are well developed and do not need repeated butt wiping, often known as The Never-Ending Butt Wipe or Endless Poop. However, they aren’t.

Is Toilet Water Dirty?

Generally speaking, water flowing to the latrine tank is standard soft water. You have just one supply line that goes through your home. This means it’s the same water that goes into the kitchen sink, bathtub, dishwasher, and other places of your home. The water flowing through the bathroom is thus generally as sterile as the water flows into any other toilets, at least before it enters the toilet.

Yet in no way should you drink or consume toilet water. Once the water is within the tank, there are likely several unsafe bacteria in the water and any residual germs in the bowl, depending on how well and how recently the lavatory was cleaned.

Are Toilet Water Splashes Dangerous?

Neither are toilet water splashes dangerous nor do these splashes pose any serious health risks when coming in contact with the exposed skin. The toilet water may carry all kinds of bacteria, however, it’s doubtful to transmit disease or an illness. With all that said, it can be considered gross or unhygienic, especially if there is dirty water inside the bowl or the bowl hadn’t been flushed by the last user. For hygiene purposes and to ward off that disgusting feel, wipe off the exposed skin clean with clean tap water or use a nice antibacterial wipe, if you get a dirty toilet water splashback on you. But again, toilet water splashback won’t kill you or harm you!

In short, toilet water may carry different types of bacteria, however, it’s unlikely to transmit disease. And most of the studies linking infection to toilet water splashback are disputed.

But there’s one exception to this: if the “dirty” toilet water goes inside your mouth or comes in contact with the vulva and/or urethra. Washing the exposed area with plenty of clean water, drinking hot tea, and a spoon of antibiotic syrup would work fine to ward off bacterial illness.

Can Toilet Water Splashback Cause Anal Fissure Infection?

No. You can’t contract anal fissure infection from a toilet water splash. An anal fissure is internal and therefore does not make contact with most external sources. Toilet water can host coli and other colon bacteria, but these are mostly bacteria that already exist in your intestines. Anal fissures are more susceptible to contamination by your own fecal bacteria and not from the toilet water splashback. If you’re concerned, see a specialist.

Can I Contract HIV From A Toilet Water Splash On Anus?

HIV emerges from sex and not from water in the toilet. Even if an HIV-positive user uses the same bathroom, you won’t catch the virus. If you’re concerned about HIV, please get tested. Testing is readily accessible everywhere.

Can Toilet Water Splash Cause Urinary Tract Infection (UTI)?

A UTI may be triggered by something that brings bacteria into contact with the vulva and/or urethra. This may occur when germs go through the urethra during intercourse, when dirty hands touch genitals, or when the vulva gets exposed to filthy toilet water splashes (disputed). Simply placed, you might get a UTI from bacteria in toilet water back, but the chances are minimum to none.

If you still feel uncomfortable with this thing, avoidance is simple. Keep your vulva clean and dry (outside the vagina) + wipe back and forth the “exposed skin” clean or pass wet hands on the splash-effected area after using the toilet.

P.S UTI is simple to treat with a round of antibiotics and home remedies, such as drinking unsweetened cranberry juice.

Can You Get Pregnant From A Back Splash Of Sperm-Mixed Toilet Water?

No. You can’t get pregnant from a backsplash of toilet water that contains sperm. Sperm will survive outside the body under properly managed conditions (that too for a limited period), and those conditions aren’t present in toilet water. Sperm can’t live by the water. Not only are sperm eggs all scattered, but they are also isolated from the fluids that cover them. It is therefore unbelievably impossible that some water carrying live semen can get inside the vagina, and then through the cervix into the uterus.

What To Do If Toilet Water Goes Into Your Eyes?

Quickly rinse your eyes for at least 5-10 minutes afterward with cold water or saline solution. This would clean away the toilet water germs from the eye. Rubbing the eyes is the worst natural reaction, people do it when something enters the eyes. It immediately breaks the barrier formed by mucosa/conjunctiva. Therefore, avoid rubbing your eyes the moment you accidentally get toilet water inside.

How To Avoid Toilet Water Splash? The 2 Best Methods:

At the drop area, lay a toilet paper flat and that will remove nearly all the splashback. You don’t need lots of paper for the bathroom. Just place one or two square pieces of toilet paper on the toilet water contained in the toilet bowl.

The second greatest option is to have the water running straight to the toilet bowl at a moment when you’re pooping. Either it is controlled flush water, through a mug, or via a Muslim shower. It’s going to absolutely eradicate splashes.

Conclusion:

The water inside the toilet does contain many types of bacteria. But a toilet splash does not make people sick or contract any disease, infection, and/or virus. A few doctors do link UTI with dirty toilet water splashback on the vulva and/or urethra – the studies are disputed. Having that said, while toilet splash probably won’t make you sick, you should still practice good hygiene. You can use disinfectant wipes or water-soaked tissue papers to clean the water-splashed skin. The exception to all this is: if toilet water gets into your eyes or inside your mouth.

Soft-closing toilet seats are a silent substitute to conventional “shutting-down-with-a-bang” toilet seats. These toilet seats shut close gently on their own and in a controlled fashion as soon as you push them down slightly. Gravity controls it, but the gravity is regulated by special tensioned hinges and grease-packed cylinders. This is where the soft-closing feature comes in so that when these seats come to their closed position, there’s no slamming down and almost no ‘slam-shut’ sound.

Only a gentle touch would do the trick to have the seat on the way to a whisper-quiet and slow closing, like a bird feather landing on the floor. It’s a silent whisper. These seats, equipped with special hinges, descend very smoothly and create practically no sound when approaching their closing point.

Are Soft-Close Toilet Seats Any Good?

Put in plain words, a soft-close toilet seat is the soft closure system for elongated and round toilet bowls. This is equipment for bringing down the toilet cover and the toilet seat, which stops the lid from dropping abruptly, as well as unexpected bangs and the irritating noise they can create. With a soft-close mechanism, bringing both the seat and the lid down is: smoother, slower, and quieter; increasing convenience and ease of usage. Another benefit provided by this toilet lid and toilet seat closure device is safety, particularly when children use the toilet.

Here are the main reasons which make soft-closing toilet seats so good and better than the traditional seats:

Smooth Seat Closing

A soft-close seat features a cushioned automatic closing system supported by tensioned hinges and grease-packed cylinders. You just need to apply gentle finger pressure on the cover and/or the seat and it will slowly close on its own. It’s an easy, soft closeness, guided only by a slight downward impulse.

*Note: It is vital not to forcefully push the lid or seat to close faster, as this can trigger harm to the system.

Closes Without Making a Noise

We’ve all encountered a late-night bathroom session, tiptoeing down the hallway so that our sleeping household members don’t wake up, only to get the quiet disrupted by the toilet seat slamming shut with a loud bang. Soft-close seats are silent, which ensures all the household members can be ensured a decent night’s sleep.

Unlike conventional toilet seats, which produce irritating knocking noises when they are closed, a soft-close seat produces almost no sound at all, regardless of how much friction is exerted to close it. The lack of noisy noise created by these seats is especially beneficial if someone in your household tends to lose their grasp while shutting the toilet seats.

Whether you or some of your family members often get up to use the toilet in the wee hours, you don’t need to worry about disrupting anyone’s peaceful sleep. A soft-close is particularly helpful in houses with REM-sleep members or people who have to use the toilet consistently at different times through the night.

Don’t Damage/Crack Toilet Bowls

Soft-close seats reduce the likelihood of damage to the toilet bowl significantly – once a bowl gets damaged or cracked, it cannot normally be fixed and may have to be replaced.

In addition to making noisy sounds, conventional toilet seats may do serious harm to your bowl if they are closed regularly with great force. To that end, it’s worth remembering that most broken toilet bowls can’t be fixed and will almost always require replacement. As any homeowner knows, toilet bowls can be very costly, therefore try to take into consideration the well-being of your toilet when finding the correct toilet seat.

More Hygienic

Soft-close toilet seats are more sanitary. That’s because to close it, there is a little handling and touching of the seat involved. If you’re a responsible toilet user, you’ll realize that shutting the lid gently will put the fingertips into touch for a few seconds with the bacteria-ridden toilet bowl. Soft-close toilet seats only require the gentlest of taps, before gravity and special tension hinges take over and enable the seat to automatically descend.

No Crushing Injuries

Believe it or not, slam-shut conventional toilet seats are blamed for thousands of toilet injuries each year. Typically, accidents arise when boys are practicing how to urinate whilst standing up and the seat drops accidentally on their penis. Even some adults have also gone through this painful experience. A cat that loves to drink from the toilet bowl may even be hurt or trapped inside the bowl because of sudden collapsing seats. Kids may even have their fingertips or tiny hands trapped if a seat shuts close accidentally. Indeed, a frustrating and unpleasant encounter!

Using a nationwide database of accidents sustained by household goods treated by U.S. ERs between 2002 and 2010, the researchers identified 13,175 bathroom or toilet seat-related genital injuries. About 68% were crush accidents, which is where the penis is crushed between the seat and the bowl. Around 97% of these were children aged seven years and under. The rest 3% were adults.

These statistics could be the tip of the iceberg since there could be children who got injured but weren’t taken to the hospital for emergency care. This may therefore be an underestimation of how much this happens.

Soft-close toilet seats, on the other hand, have a specifically built system that ensures that if a seat is inadvertently pushed down, there is no chance of little children having their fingers or penis trapped.

Soft-close seats allow them to comfortably use the toilet without the possibility of hurting or crushing their fingers underneath a heavy and hard plastic seat. A soft shutting seat shuts at a controlled pace, regardless of how much friction is added to it.

Mold-Resistant & Heavy-Duty

Soft-close toilet seats are premium produced from high-quality, heavy-duty, and mold-resistant plastic. This makes them not only comfortable to sit on but also grants them a long life and strong resistance against mold and mildew infestation than standard toilet seats. Since the bacteria and mold development is low on such toilets, they don’t need to be cleaned regularly or weekly. Although conventional seats are to be cleaned once a week, you will possibly clean soft-close seats twice a week. So they give a much-needed break to housework-embroiled individuals.

Easy Installation & Removal

Many of the soft close toilet seats can be mounted with just a flat-head screwdriver. Some also feature simple “lift-off/quick release” and “quick install” hinges. Even for a novice handyman, it should take no longer than a few minutes to attach or unplug a soft seat. Since they are very easy to remove, you should find no hindrance when deep cleaning the toilet.

How Long Does a Soft-Close Toilet Seat’s Soft Closing Feature Last?

The slow-closing feature of most soft close toilet seats lasts up to 50,000 repetitions if kept with care. But the average for most users is around 25,000 to 30,000 repetitions. [1 repetition = 1x time seat closing or opening]. When rounded off, a soft-closing toilet seat would keep functioning best for 24 months (2 years), after which it would start losing its slow closing functionality.

The fix?

At that point, you may need to:

• Clean the hinges and remove any crud that is interfering with proper operation.
• If the seat features cylinder cartridges, then most probably the grease inside the cartridges has dried out. The right and left cylinders control the lid and the seat, respectively. Open the malfunctioning cylinder, and add a small portion of waterproof grease inside the tube. And the slow closing feature would be revived again.
• If any of the parts are broken, seek the manufacturer’s help or get a replacement from the hardware store.

If you live in the cold areas, where you get freezing temperatures for many weeks a year – you definitely have to encounter frozen bathtub drains. The explanation behind this is not only freezing weather but also inefficient piping and leaks in the wall that contribute to cold air entering the trap pipe and freezing it.

If a boiling water kettle disappointed you, your beloved plunger plunged away to no avail, and you still have water standing in the tub and you are absolutely utterly confused on how to melt the ice block and flush the accumulated water in the drain — here I have listed my PROVEN DIY techniques to thaw a frozen bathtub drain without calling the plumber.

(MY TOP FAVORITE)

Remedy # 1

The Wet/Dry Vac + Blow Dryer Method

If there’s a wall (closet) that can be opened at the drain end of the tub, you can break/cut the access panel at the floor level and blow-dry to thaw the frozen pipes. Then cover it up with insulation for future help. Purchase an access panel door to mount in the place of the cut.

If that fails, continue to this next step:

Take a wet/dry vacuum, extract the existing water, and use more hot water until the bath tub’s frozen drain is unclogged. Or you might suck the water and target the blow dryer on a hot setting inside the tub drain. I’ve seen people use salt for thawing, but if you’ve got metal pipes (especially the trap), you’ll risk the chance to eat it and cause more trouble. Good luck and let me know about your experiences with this bathtub drain thawing remedy in the comments section below.

Remedy # 2

Baking Soda + Vinegar Method

Pour a handful of baking soda inside the tub drain, and wait for 60 seconds. Now pour 1 cup of distilled white vinegar into the drain and wait for a few minutes for the chemical reaction to take place. As a consequence of the chemical reaction taking place in the vessel, you will notice bubbles and fizzing sound. Apart from clearing the frozen block obstruction, the mixture will also cleanse the pipe, removing sludge. While the baking soda + vinegar mixture is already in the drain, continue to step 2.

Mix salt in 3-4 cups of boiling water. Slowly transfer the mixture to the tub’s drain. This will enable the percolation of the baking soda and vinegar mixture inside the frozen piping. Salt is a really strong element that accelerates the ice melting process.

As soon as the clog is clear, run good amounts of clear hot water down the drain to ensure the drainage pipes are properly thawed.

Remedy # 3

Space Heater Method

Use a space heater or heat lamp to really warm up the area and also pour hot water mixed with safety salt down the drain. It will thaw the frozen bathtub drain. Hold the heater 8 inches away from the tubing or the walls to prevent a fire hazard. And make sure there are no flame-catching rugs or carpets in front of it.

Combine Some Additional Things For A More Powerful Effect…

You can combine any of the aforementioned remedies with these below-listed techniques for a more powerful thawing effect.

Warming the Pipe

Locate the frozen part of the sewage pipe. With your fingertips, search for the coldest part of the tubing. If you cannot identify an origin, start working on the tube nearest to the tub drain.

Use a hairdryer. Start to heat up the tube from the coldest portion. If the region outside the frozen pipe is damp, wrap hot towels all over the pipe. Thaw the piping until the complete flow of water is restored.

Warning: Never attempt to warm the pipes using an open flame.

Warming the Vent Pipe

You may even consider heating the ventilation pipe (also called a vent stack). (also called a vent stack). This is the conduit that exits out of the house. It is meant to provide fresh air for your plumbing equipment. It expels odorous air from your home.

To drain the water, the ventilation pipe has to filter fresh air into the drainage channel. That being said, if the vent tube is frozen, it cannot function and the drain will be trapped.

If you are handy (and not frightened of heights), enter into your attic and see if the exhaust pipe is frozen. You should use the hairdryer trick to warm it up.

Increase The Heat Levels

In order to conserve money, people often reduce the heat and it comes back to haunt them in the form of freezing pipes. Switch the heat up to a higher degree than you’ve been using. Nor am I speaking intolerably hot but just a regular degree of heating that is not a money-saving level. Open up so that the heat reaches unheated places.

Preventing Future Freezing of BathTub Drain: Here’s What I Did & So Should You As Well (A Guide Exclusively for Plumbers)

Bathtub drain freezing is a major problem (when you live in cold regions, obviously) and also when pipes run across exterior walls and uninsulated or poorly-insulated attics.

Open the area to search for uninsulated places and leakage of air. The wind is a significant contributor to frozen pipes, and even a slight opening will allow enough cool air to freeze the drainage pipes. For a good visual examination, I will strip all the old insulation. An infrared camera is helpful in such cases. One thing people don’t know is that fiberglass insulation doesn’t block air infiltration; air leaks must be prevented for it to function.

I came across a customer, facing a similar issue. Air leaked through insulation and through the soffit vent into the insulated wall area, allowing the bathtub drainage pipes to freeze in that wall area.

Proper vents guarantee the proper amount of airflow from the eaves to the ridge vent. Typically, they are constructed of Styrofoam and come in numerous shapes and sizes. After that, insulation is placed over them. Proper vents are built to help fresh air to flow up the underside of the roof via the soffit vent and out of the roof vent. A soffit vent helps air to pass into the appropriate vent in the attic. This tends to keep the attic cool throughout the summer and encourages moisture to evaporate. Appropriate ventilation also helps to extend shingle life and avoid ice jams.

Insulation jammed into spaces is another issue that I sometimes encounter. Fiberglass insulation must remain fluffy and relaxed. Provided that its dead-air space is limited, compressed fiberglass ends up losing its R-value. If correctly installed, fiberglass insulation won’t deteriorate.

I attached Styrofoam vents to the soffit vent to fix my dilemma. And I reinstalled fiberglass high-density insulation. “Open-cell spray foam” is also a better option (if you can afford it). It is necessary to secure the insulation batts in place. This is why the folds are placed around the edges. These folds may be opened and piled onto the wooden board.

The floor rim joist or the portion of the exterior wall of the floor joist should be tested and insulated; the electrical connection, dryer vents, and piping should be examined for air leaks, and foam insulation or caulk should be used to keep the hot air in and hold cold air out.

After insulating all of these areas, I filled the whole outer wall and rim-joint areas with 1.5-inch Styrofoam rigid-board insulation to shut air gaps and maximize the R-value. I also utilized the foil HVAC tape to seal all board gaps, sealing some wide holes with expanding foam. This not only warms your unheated wall space but also prevents the flood of air that freezes your bathtub drainage pipes and traps.

Conclusion:

A well-conditioned drain pipe typically drains dry and doesn’t freeze during use. However, it is common for a drainpipe to freeze in sub-zero temperatures. A blocked drain will freeze since it holds water in the pipe. A drain not correctly pitched will retain water and freeze it. A dripping faucet will cause water to cool down and freeze several meters down the drain line. This is one of the aspects that make me shudder anytime I hear people recommend keeping a faucet dripping to avoid the pipes freezing. In my 10 years of plumbing job, I have come across several cases where the primary sewage pipe got frozen by a leaking toilet or a faucet.

If you haven’t had either of the above freezing situations, the only spot your drainage line is frozen is the trap under the tub drain. The trap is a T-shaped drainage tube containing water that stops sewage gasses from entering the house. Heating it will unclog the frozen bathtub drain. Gain entry to this trap either through the wall of the room at the back of the tub drain or through the roof below. Guide the flow from the hairdryer to the spot where the trap is, and see the ice melt away. If this does not work, you must check for pipe flaws and try the remedies I described earlier, but in most situations, this should work.

If you reside in places that have severely cold conditions for several weeks per year, you would certainly need to struggle with frozen kitchen sink drains. It is not just a freezing climate but also the bad plumbing which exposes the kitchen drainage pipes to the frost. If you want to know how to thaw a blocked sink drain without calling the plumber, you are here at the right place.

Solution # 1

The Blow Dryer + Wet/Dry Vac Method

If there is a wall (closet) with connections to the drain, you should cut or remove the panel at the floor level and unfreeze the pipes using a blow dryer. Then cover this up with insulation for future needs. Mount an additionally-purchased access panel door on the cutting spot.

If that does not do it, you should progress to the next stage.

Run a wet/dry vacuum, eliminate accumulated water and then pour hot water until the iced drain is unblocked. For a more powerful effect, you may also target the hairdryer on the hot setting in the sink drain.

Solution # 2

Baking Soda + Vinegar Method

Sprinkle baking soda into the kitchen drain, then wait for 30-40 seconds. Now add in 1 cup of white vinegar into the sink and let it rest for a few minutes. You would be able to see and hear a bubbling and fizzing sound as a result of the chemical reaction going on inside the drain. In addition to clearing the frozen obstruction, the mixture may also cleanse the vessel, removing sludge. Continue to stage 2 when the baking soda + vinegar blend is still in the sink.

Stir in salt into 3-4 cups of hot water. Slowly pour this hot water down the drain. This will allow the baking soda and vinegar combination to go through the pipes. Salt is a very powerful additive that helps melt the ice by speeding the process.

Once the clog is removed, it is wise to pump decent volumes of hot water down the drain to thaw the pipes from top to bottom.

Solution # 3

The Space Heater Process

Solutions can involve using a space heater or a heat lamp to fully warm the region and then adding hot water and a mixture of salt into the drain. It will defrost frozen tubing. Keep the heater 8 inches away from the piping or walls to avoid a fire threat. And be sure there are no flame-catching elements nearby.

Combine a few additional items to create a more effective result…

You may combine the remedies described above with the strategies specified below for a more effective thawing effect.

Heating the Tubing

Locate the frozen section of the kitchen sink drain piping. Use your hands to look for the coldest portion of the tubing.

Turn on the hairdryer. Begin from the coldest section to heat the channel.  Thaw the tubing until the full flow of water has been returned.

Do not use an open flame to reheat the tubing.

Rising heat levels

To save electricity, people sometimes reduce the temperature of their water source. Some people also keep the indoor temperatures lowered to save on their bills. And in the end, it ends up hurting them in the form of frozen pipes. Increase the intensity of the heat a little more than what you usually do. I am not saying intolerably warm temperatures. I’m speaking normal amounts that are not on the money-saving course. Open to enable the heat to enter unheated areas.

How To Prevent Kitchen Sink Freezing In Future? (A Guide Exclusively for Plumbers)

Freezing of the kitchen sink drain is a big concern (obviously when you reside in cold regions) and even when drains pass into external walls and uninsulated or improperly insulated attics.

To check for uninsulated areas and air leakage, open the field. The wind is a big contributor to frozen pipes, and even a small opening would cause the drainage pipes to freeze with adequate cold air. I can remove all of the old insulation for a successful visual inspection. In such situations, an infrared camera is useful. One thing that people don’t realize is that air penetration is not blocked by fiberglass insulation; air leaks must be avoided for it to work.

I came across a client having a similar dilemma. Air escaped through the enclosed wall area by insulation and the soffit vent, causing the sink drainage pipes in that wall area to freeze.

The right amount of ventilation from the eaves to the ridge vent is ensured by adequate vents. They are usually made of Styrofoam and come in various shapes and sizes. Insulation is put over them after that. Proper vents are designed to allow fresh air through the soffit vent and out of the roof vent to pass up the underside of the roof. A soffit vent allows air to flow through the attic’s sufficient vent. This helps to maintain the attic cool in the summer and motivates the evaporation of moisture. Suitable airflow also tends to maintain shingle existence and eliminate ice jams.

Another challenge that I often face is insulation crammed into spaces. Insulation of fiberglass must stay soft and comfortable. Compressed fiberglass ends up losing its R-value, given that its dead-air room is reduced. Fiberglass insulation won’t deteriorate if properly built.

To solve my problem, I added Styrofoam vents to the soffit vent. And I reinstalled high-density insulation with fiberglass. “Open-cell spray foam” is a safer choice, too (if you can afford it). The isolation bats have to be locked in place. This is why the folds along the edges are located. It is possible to open these folds and pile them onto the wooden surface.

The floor rim joist or the part of the floor joist’s outer wall should be inspected and insulated; air leaks should be investigated for the electrical attachment, dryer vents, and plumbing, and foam insulation or caulk should be used to hold the hot air in and keep the cold air out.

I covered the whole exterior wall and rim-joint areas with 1.5-inch Styrofoam rigid-board insulation after insulating all of these areas to close off air holes and optimize the R-value. To close all board openings, I have used the foil HVAC tape, covering several large holes with expanding foam. This not only warms your unheated wall room, but it also stops the air flood that freezes the drainage pipes and traps of your kitchen’s sink.

The Conclusion:

A well-conditioned drain pipe normally drains dry and during usage does not freeze. However, in sub-zero conditions, it is normal for a drainpipe to freeze. Because it keeps water in the stream, a blocked drain can freeze. A drain that is not pitched properly will retain water and ice it. A leaking faucet can allow water to cool down and ice down the drain line for many meters. This is one of the things that make me cringe if I hear people suggest holding a leaking faucet to prevent freezing the pipes. In my 10 years of plumbing work, I have come across many occasions where a leaking toilet or a faucet has frozen the primary sewage drain.

The only place the drainage pipe is frozen is the trap under the sink drain, whether you haven’t experienced any of the above freezing cases. The trap is a water-containing T-shaped drainage tube that blocks the intrusion of waste gases into the building. Heating the frozen drain will unclog it. You must search for pipe defects if this does not work and try the solutions I mentioned earlier, but this should work in most cases.

Plumbers are professional when it comes to unclogging a drain. Obviously, they have years of experience in their portfolios and so they are aware of each and every technique and what drain cleaners to use different on different types of clogs. We do everything at home, use a variety of commercial drain cleaners, but still fail to achieve that perfect flushing drain. It’s the same as home chefs being unable to make homemade food taste like a restaurant.

But being in the plumbing service for more than a decade now, I have decided to bust the plumbing industry’s secret on acids and chemical cleaners used to unclog residential and commercial drains.

1). Sodium Hydroxide

This is a fast-acting chemical that dissolves organic content in no more than 60 seconds. It produces heat and gas but burns out within two minutes only. It must be cautiously put into the clogged drain, followed by a slow pouring of hot water down the drain. It may come packaged in a wax form, but not always. Make sure to cover your eyes and nose, and follow the instructions properly before using.

2). Inhibited Sulfuric Acid

This acid approaches boiling temperatures when exposed to the water inside the drain. It has a harsh, powerful effect and lasts longer than most other acid drain cleaners. Car batteries typically use it for metal digestion and electricity generation. It produces a pungent smell identical to rotting eggs and is used to fix slow-moving waterways.

3). Inhibited Hydrochloric Acid

This substance cleans deposited salts and other build-ups that develop on bathroom toilets and urinals. It gets very hot and is very reactive to water.

4). Biochemical Cleaners

Biochemical cleaners have the potential to absorb and melt organic content that is causing clogs or a slow drain. These cleaners are mostly used in restaurants to prevent the kitchen sink drains from getting clogged, as those drains that have a higher quantity of oil and grease. Plumbers refer to them as “drain sweeteners”, since the smells they create are pleasing to the nose. It’s normally fine to use, but it’s still necessary to read the instructions and obey them exactly.

Several Things To Be Mindful Of When Using These Acids or Drain Chemical Cleaners:

• Sodium Hydroxide can produce fumes that are caustic, nearly odorless, and colorless.
• Any chemicals and/or acids used incorrectly may create heat within the pipes and cause them to melt.
• If a chemical agent is insufficient to clear the drain, it might be appropriate to use a sewer machine or blowing bag to do the job.
• Poisonous chemicals, which are emitted into the environment, may trigger severe damage or death. Pets (especially birds) may get killed by tiny concentrations of these gases. Make sure that you have good ventilation and that nothing is near while using these items – pets or young kids.
• Acid must be applied to water, not water added to acid. Water will explode when placed into acid.
• Some acids begin to heat up such that, after the period specified on the bottle, they can cause bubbles or cracks in the urinals or toilets. Therefore, pour plenty of water after the acid is done with its job in the sewer pipes.
• Chemical cleaners may have a fast-acting impact on the organic content in the drain, breaking the sludge and filth in a matter of seconds. Because of the chemical nature of the human body, accidental contact with the skin may result in serious burns.

Do I Still Need A Plumber? Can’t I Use These Acids On My Own?

Just certified plumbers should have access to chemical and/or acid drain cleaners. Sure, you could use them on your own, but you could be exposed to risks such as leaving the acid inside the drain more than the needed time and causing the sewer pipes to melt or risks such as getting exposed to the acid. Furthermore, you don’t have the competence to immediately respond to emergencies. Therefore, they should only be used by a certified, trained specialist. When this is performed by plumbing experts, you are covered by the best work guaranteed promise!

If you just flushed the toilet and it wouldn’t flush, you’re definitely searching for an easy way to address this frustrating problem. We have built this detailed guide to addresses the key factors that sometimes lead the toilet to not flush and the normal remedies to this issue.

Trying to find out why a toilet flushes incorrectly may be confusing if you don’t know which part is malfunctioning or either it’s due to a clog or any third-party element. That’s why we’ll share the most common causes toilets start having problems flushing and how to repair them yourself. “Toilet won’t flush” is a typical issue that often occurs in many households, but in most cases, it can be easily dealt with.

The most popular explanation why toilets won’t flush is because of clogs, there is not enough water, the flapper is damaged, blocked inlet holes, and even issues with the chain.

Reason #1: A Clogged Toilet

That goes without saying, a clogged toilet is something that everybody has to contend with. Typically, clogged toilets arise as a consequence of flushing anything that should not be flushed, using too much low-quality toilet paper, or large stools in the toilet. This condition may also be induced by sanitary and feminine goods such as tampons and should usually not be flushed.

Solution: Use a Plunger

It is a popular issue which thankfully has a common remedy, the plunger. If you use a plunger and force it as strongly as you can you should be able to clear the clog in the toilet and achieve improved efficiency when flushing. If nothing works, such equipment as a plumbing snake will come in handy.

Reason #2: Inaccurate Water Level In The Tank

In order to flush with efficiency, the toilet requires the correct volume of water in the reservoir. If the amount is too low or too high, you can face trouble with the toilet when you flush. Often the toilet manufacturer places a marking within the tank, letting you exactly how many gallons of water to put in for the correct working of your toilet. There could have been a manual modification of the water level to conserve water or misalignment of parts inside the tank.

Solution: Adjust The Level

When the toilet tank fills, there is a float inside that controls the toilet water volume, in order to prevent water overflow or water insufficiency inside the tank. The float may be a rubber ball-type component. Anyway, the water levels inside the tank must be adjusted using a screw-like device located at the top of the fill valve. If rotated to the left, it will elevate the float and will enable it to accept some more volumes of water into the tank.

Reason #3: Trouble with the Flapper

The flapper is a cool little instrument that sits connected to a chain in the toilet tank that causes the appropriate volume of water to stream out when the toilet is flushed. When the lever is flushed, the flapper opens to allow water to escape and then shuts to avoid additional water from running. If the flapper appears to be damaged, bent, or broken, it might be the cause why your toilet doesn’t flush properly.

Solution: Replace Flapper

If the flapper is damaged in a manner that prohibits it from functioning correctly, it would have to be replaced. A replacement flapper is readily accessible at local hardware shops and is relatively inexpensive. Drain the tank full prior to removing the flapper, and then connect the new flapper to the chain.

Reason #4: Blocked Inlet Holes

Inlet holes are the tiny holes found underneath the upper edges of the toilet bowl. When the toilet is flushed, water rushes out of these holes. When one of these openings is plugged or blocked, the toilet does not flush with maximum power. This issue can be detected by observing these holes as the toilet flushes and make sure the water comes out of all of them.

Solution: Unclog Inlet Holes

It can be done yourself, but a little effort would be required. If you’re up to the challenge, you might consider using a funnel or water spray bottle to splash heated vinegar on the clogged inlet holes. You may use a mirror to look underneath the edges of the rim. Let it stay overnight. Meanwhile, you can also scrub the area using under-the-rim toilet brushes and try using a tool such as a simple paper clip, twisted hanger, or old toothbrush. A video with directions is here.

Reason #5: Flapper Chain Issues

If your bathroom isn’t flushing, it may be an issue with the lift chain of the toilet. The chain is connected to the flapper and raises it to allow water to come in and out. Perhaps this chain is rusted, damaged, or installed at the wrong length. If either of these issues happens the chain would not raise the flapper correctly to enable the water to drain out to the toilet.

Solution: Adjust or Replace The Chain

There may be problems with the chain being too small, which would allow the toilet to not function. If it’s the problem, easily adjust the chain’s length. If the chain appears to be bent or rusted to a point that it does not function, it would have to be replaced. A replacement chain may be bought at the hardware store.

Often note, if all of these things appear to be too large to cope with or if they don’t work, there may be a more complicated issue with your plumbing under the surface. In that case, get the help of a professional plumber.

If your toilet is not flushing properly or flushing slowly, and you know that the toilet trap and the main drain is not clogged, then the possible causes could be: a blocked siphon jet, broken seal of the wax ring, or issue with the toilet tank’s inner components such as the flapper or the chain.

Reason #1: The Siphon Jet Holes Are Blocked With Mineral Deposits

A siphon jet is a small hole located inside the bowl. Not all toilets have a siphon jet, therefore, verify your model before getting started.

Now there are two ways to eliminate mineral deposits from the siphon jet. We have listed both the ways here.

• Solution #1 is a fast and easy way to get rid of not-so-stubborn deposits on the jet hole.
• Solution #2 is an advanced way to get rid of very-stubborn deposits on the jet hole.

Go with the option that matches your needs.

Solution #1: [The Quick & Easy One]

1. This work is kind of yucky, so you will want to suit your hand up with a latex glove.
2. Dip your hand inside the toilet bowl’s drain area (where the water is contained).
3. And check the siphon jet holes, hidden inside the wall of the toilet bowl’s drain area.
4. Your hands will feel the hole is clogged with mineral deposits.
5. First, break these mineral deposits as much as possible with your hands, but since the walls inside are a bit rough, you may break the mineral deposits free by scraping the walls of the inside of the hole with an old plastic toothbrush handle.
6. Plastic is safe since it would not damage the porcelain. But you can substitute it with any other similar item such as a small stick.
7. You would notice a lot of debris breaking free.
8. Once properly cleaned, the toilet’s flushing power will be restored.

Solution #2: [The Advanced Method]

• Shut off the water supply to the tank.
• Flush the toilet to drain most water and then remove the rest of the remaining water from the bowl with a small cup or a sponge or paper towel to soak up the water.
• Wear rubber gloves.
• Next put vinegar in the toilet bowl. The vinegar should be enough to cover the drain portion. Let it sit overnight. This will soften up the calcium build-up in the 3/4 inch or so hole in the draining part of the bowl.
• Use a wooden stick or a soft plastic article to gently help dislodge this calcium buildup when you flush down the vinegar. Do not scrape with a metal object or damage the porcelain.
• The calcium crumbles when soaked long enough, so removal with a blunt object should be quick and easy.
• Additionally, you may also clean the inner bowl rim to hopefully remove any slime or build-up that may impede the water coming down the inner bowl sides.

Reason #2: Inaccurate Water Level In The Tank

The toilet needs the right amount of water in the tank to flush with effectiveness. When the volume of water is too low or too high, when you flush, you will face difficulty with the toilet. The toilet vendor also puts a label within the tank, informing you precisely how many gallons of water your toilet uses per flush to function properly. Manual modifications to the water volume may have been made to save water or there could be a misalignment of sections within the tank.

Solution:

1. As the toilet tank loads, there is a float inside that regulates the amount of toilet water. A float is a ball-like object. Check if there’s enough water in the tank. The water level should be around one inch below the overflow tube.
2. Check the flush operation on the toilet. There are many styles of toilets, and with this standard on how low the water level should drop on a flush, it’s probably safe to say that at least half or more than half of the water should empty from the tank.
3. The fill valve which opens and closes/keeps the water level within the tank must be balanced using a screw-like system located at the top of the fill valve. If rotated to the left, it will raise the float which will allow it to take any more volumes of water into the tank.

Reason #3: Problems with the Flapper Valve

The flapper is a little instrument that sits attached to a chain in the toilet tank, which allows the required amount of water to spill out when the toilet is flushed. When the lever is flushed, the flapper opens to allow water to escape and then shuts to avoid additional water from running. If the flapper seems to be weakened, bent, or missing, it could be the explanation of why your toilet didn’t flush properly.

Solution:

If the flapper becomes affected in a way that prevents it from operating, it will have to be replaced. The replacement flapper is easily available in nearby hardware stores and is reasonably inexpensive. Drain the tank before removing the flapper, and then connect the new flapper to the chain.

Reason #4: Chain Issues

If your toilet isn’t functioning well i.e slow flushing (despite not being clogged), there might be something wrong with the toilet chain. The chain is attached to the faucet which enables water to flow in and out. Maybe this chain is rusted, broken, or at the wrong length mounted. If one of these complications occurred, the chain does not correctly lift the flapper to encourage the water to flow out to the toilet swiftly.

Solution:

There could be issues with the chain being too short, which will render it difficult for the toilet to operate. If that’s the problem, make modifications to the chain’s length. If the chain tends to be warped or rusted to such a degree that it doesn’t function, it requires substitution. A replacement chain can be ordered at the hardware shop.

Are gurgles drained from the sink or bath tub as the laundry machine removes the water? Although most people disregard this, some homeowners are very perplexed about what triggers the creation of bubbles and the sound of ‘gur gur’ emanating from the drain of the sink/tub. If you are an astute analyst of things and want to know why sink gurgling arises due to the runoff of the washer, we are here to answer your question and give these enigmatic burbles a remedy.

Why My Sink Gurgles When The Washing Machine Drains Water?

This happens because your sink, tub, and the washing machine – all share the same drainage pipe for draining the water. The moment the washing machine releases a huge volume of water down the drain, the water pushes the air into the pipes and the air exits at sink or tub creating gurgling noises. Simply stated, the gurgling is attributed to the difference in pressure within the drain pipe that is shared by your laundry machine and your sink or shower.

Now there are several reasons for this pressure difference and the solutions:

1). A clogged vent.

If airflow is blocked, negative pressure draws air from everywhere it can. When water passes into the drain pipes, it creates an airtight seal. As water moves, air is pushed and a vacuum is formed. This vacuum is strong enough to pull air through the sink, or bathtub drain, and generate the guttural growl. A gurgling toilet normally implies that the vacuum is forcing water out of the toilet trap and the space may be swamped with sewage gas. To clear a clogged vent, inject a jet of water into the central vent stack.

2). The sink and/or tub vent is not installed properly.

Flawed installation of the sink vent is also a factor that could trigger your sink to gurgle. If the sink contains 1 ½ inch drain tubing, so the vent must be at least 3 ½ feet away from the bottom of the trap.

If this is not the case, the vent would not be able to drain enough air out and this would cause a pressure gap inside the plumbing framework.

The laundry machine emits water at an immense pressure. The vent will not be able to control the pressure enough, causing the sink to gurgle.

If the vent is located higher than 3 ½ feet from the trap, vacuum would be produced within the drain pipes. This vacuum effect causes your sink to gurgle because it pushes the air through the sink drain.

3). There is vent leakage.

if the sink vent is leaking, this indicates that the pressure present is poor and air cannot reach the vent, so it begins leaking through the sink drains. Low pressure and the vacuum effect can produce a gurgling sound within your sink.

4). The washing machine drain is using your kitchen sink as a vent to relief pressure in drains.

Some plumbing systems aren’t vented. If you look at those pipes under your sink and at no point do you see any pipe going inside the wall nor do you see a portion that is going to the attic, it means the vent is not there.

The vent pipe is identical in appearance to the pipe of the sink drain. The drain pipe passes underground within the wall, whilst the vent pipe heads to the attic and exits on the roof. When the laundry machine pumps water into the drain hose, the air enters in so the vacuum is generated in the pipe. If there’s no vent outlet, air enters from the opening of the kitchen sink. Therefore, air will only be sucked from the kitchen sink, causing gurgling.

Simply install a cheater vent and get rid of this gurgling sound.

5). The main drain line is partially blocked.

If you think the key source of water in the house is obstructed, you can attempt to repair the obstacle yourself. An enzyme-based drain cleaner is the safest alternative. The cleaner may be purchased at a Home Depot shop. Place it in the kitchen sink, the drain for the washer and the drain for the bathtub. Do this at night when you are not planning to use the sinks and the toilet. As long as practicable, let the enzyme cleaner stay and repeat several times. If the source of your gurgling problem was a partially blocked sewage pipe, you would begin to see changes.

When the gurgling ceases, every 3 months or so, it is best to start using the cleaner because you will have no issues. It is possible to use most industrial cleaners daily. The enzymes help to break down the soap and organic content in the drain line. This helps the sticky gunk and sludge to be washed out absolutely. It would open the drain lines and allow the waste water to run properly, so there will be no gurgling anymore.

So these are the causes and solutions to those sink/tub gurgles when the washing machine drains. First evaluate if your case falls in any of the aforementioned reasons, and then get started with the treatment.

Flushing tampons or not flushing tampons, that’s really a dilemma. Women differ about how to dispose of tampons. You’re not alone, we’ve all been there.

Most women will assume that flushing away a discarded tampon is the best way since it leaves no traces behind.

It’s right there in the plain sight… after all, why would you want to risk trying to hide your dirty tampon inside the trash, particularly if you’re at somebody’s house.

But is this feminine hygiene item safe to flush? Does it cause sewer blockages? We have shared a comprehensive guide on flushing tampoons, which will provide you with enough information on this topic.

Can You Flush Tampons Down The Toilet?

No, and Yes.

NO: Never ever flush tampons down the toilet. Since tampons cannot be disposed of by the wastewater treatment plant. Plus, you are a risk of damaging your plumbing system. Even if you have never encountered a severe plumbing problem by flushing the tampons as of yet, this really doesn’t guarantee that it would never happen to you in the future.

YES [But at your own risk!]: If there’s no trash bin in the bathroom and you are at someone’s house, OR if you don’t have access to something like a tissue paper for wrapping the blood-soaked tampon and caring it away for disposal. However, make sure to flush the cotton part only, and not the plastic applicator.

What’s The Right Way To Dispose Used Tampons?

You ought to avoid flushing your discarded tampons and pads down the toilet; not just for your benefit, but for that of the rest of us, because these items damage the sewer system and destroy clean water sources for future generations. Here are the right techniques for disposing of used tampons:

• When disposing of discarded tampons, it is usually safer to cover them in toilet paper or face tissue and throw them in the trash.
• It is recommended that, in the workplace, tampons should be dumped into lined waste bins to avoid exposure to the waste collectors and other waste bin contents.
• Most public toilets would have dedicated bins in their bathrooms, but if there’s no bin inside the lavatory, just cover the tampon in some toilet paper and dump it in the garbage. If the trash bin isn’t nearby, and you can’t carry the blood-infused tampoon, then simply flush the cotton part in the toilet or the complete tampon set, If it’s a pressure-assist toilet with powerful flushing.
• Alternatively, you can dispose of the substance in a more discreet, sanitary, and environmentally-friendly manner by packing it in a biodegradable container prior to tossing it in the trash can. And if you do not wish to pursue this path, you are still open to choose a reusable path with items such as menstrual cups and period panties.

Why Shouldn’t You Flush Tampons Down The Loo?

They damage the plumbing system.

Many types of feminine hygiene items (i.e. tampons/sanitary pads) are made of absorptive content. When flushed, these items get stuck in your plumbing lines and/or get stuffed loaded of water, inflated and trapped in your plumbing pipes. This can create blockages that may contribute to sewage backflow into your residence and expensive repairs.

If they happen to get through your home pipes, they have the ability to destroy your town’s local drainage system, potentially culminating in waste overflowing into nearby waterways.

It has a negative impact on the environment.

The key explanation for this is that they don’t disintegrate in the wastewater system. The bottom line is to flush only the three Ps: piss, poop and paper. Flushing something other than these three Ps, would create sewage issues inside the drainage system.

Menstrual goods like tampons and pads worm their way to the treatment plants, entirely intact. They don’t snap and tear quickly like toilet paper. Since, the majority of these items don’t break down when they’re flushed away, they end up entirely intact in seas, oceans, rivers or natural water sources.

Considering how many consumers do buy the products and how many flush the items, the volume of plastic winding up in the sea because of the products is huge. Even a tiny fraction of that ends up in the ocean is huge volume of plastic per year.

It puts a huge financial pressure on the community.

That kind of pollution not only creates damages to the ecosystem, but it is costly to the population in general. Items such as wipes, paper towels, and feminine grooming products may not be flushed, but sometimes are, creating issues with infrastructure that equate to billions of pounds in maintenance and repair expenditures — expenditure that eventually passes to the customer. In the UK, some 1.4 billion tampons are flushed per year, leading to an £88 million yearly expense of unblocking sewers.